Ifugao in the Northern Philippines
Exploring the Mountains and Cultures of the Central Cordillera
Jul 29, 2008
Ifugao is a long day’s drive north from Manila. Dull at first, the journey becomes interesting after San José as the route follows the wide and flood-prone Pampanga river valley, rises over the impressive 3,000 ft Dalton Pass, descends into the Cagayan Valley and beyond Bambang winds its way up into the Central Cordillera mountains.
Banaue Rice Terraces
Most visitors pass through the provincial capital at Lagawe and continue to the better known Banaue. With its houses built precariously on the sides of steep valleys, this little town is spectacular in itself and a good centre for exploring the local valleys, crafts and traditions.
The massive, interconnected networks of rice terraces on the otherwise unusable mountainsides are thought to be 2,000 years old and are recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage site.
But there is more to Ifugao than the rice terraces. Local traditions include a rich heritage of distinctive rituals, dress, crafts, language, literature, song and dance, all of which have developed within the context of a remarkable system of rice cultivation.
Development Challenges
Entry into the modern world has presented the Ifugao people with tough challenges. Limited land suitable for farming together with the area’s remoteness and its vulnerability to landslides, typhoons and other natural hazards have restricted opportunities for development. Ifugao province remains one of the poorest in the Philippines.
The combination of poverty, high birth rates, improved roads, low recognition in national politics and lax law enforcement has led to environmental degradation and social problems. Many young people are leaving to work in Manila or overseas. And large areas of the rice terraces are falling into disrepair, leading to fears that little of this iconic feature of the landscape will remain 20 years from now.
School of Living Traditions
But there are signs of a revival. The provincial governor has made the preservation of the rice terraces his highest priority. Chapters of the School of Living Traditions are established all over the province, re-introducing aspects of cultural life into communities and schools. Community-based organizations are building on old social structures to support modern styles of development. The promotion of organic farming and eco-tourism are creating realistic prospects for a sustainable escape from poverty.
Memorable images are of farmers working their fields and tending their pigs and carabao; neatly uniformed school children; travelers on gaudily painted jeepneys and buses; wood carvers, weavers and other craftsmen upholding longstanding customs. The Banaue Hotel puts on regular cultural performances, but it is not unusual to see local men in colourful if skimpy outfits on their way to take part in authentic ceremonies to mark a death or the end of a tribal conflict.
Beyond Banaue the landscape is perhaps at its most impressive in the neighbouring valley of Hungduan and the much-visited Bataad, where the terraces seem to form a giant amphitheatre with a handful of red-roofed houses at its centre. The pretty town of Kiangan is worth visiting for its imposing Catholic church, cultural museum and a tasteful memorial to the many American and Japanese soldiers who died nearby in World War II. Everywhere there are opportunities for beautifully scenic if demanding hikes with a local guide.
Other Central Cordillera Attractions
There are two alternative return routes to Manila and both add value to the trip. The winding road north from Banaue to Bontoc provides two hours of yet more stunning mountain and valley views. The road west from Bontoc is now well made and leads to the regional capital city of Baguio, a cool mountain-top haven for visitors from Manila in the hot season. A more adventurous and scenic route turns east from Bontoc and follows the Chico river valley down to Tabuk, then south through Santiago.
The area’s winding, unmade roads are not to everyone’s taste, the mountain weather can vary unpredictably from beautiful sunshine to a blinding fog, and it is wise to be alert to occasional security concerns. But travelers looking for something truly remarkable will not be disappointed by a trip to Ifugao.
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